Category Archives: colombia

My 21 Favorite Places to Visit in Colombia

view of Medellin from a viewpoint in Colombia
Posted: 4/18/2019 | April 18th, 2019

From the blue waters of Tayrona National Park, the sweeping views of the Cocora Valley, and the ruins of San Agustín, Tierradentro, and the Lost City, to the white colonial buildings of Popayán and the hustle and bustle of its metropolises, Colombia is packed with things to see and do.

I’d wanted to visit Colombia for years. And after spending six weeks there, I must say, it lived up to the hype.

I mean I’ve been fawning over it a lot in my last few posts. And I know I’m the millionth blogger to do so, but it really is as incredible as people say. (Even getting knifed there couldn’t stop me from loving the country.)

I had falsely assumed that six weeks would be enough to get a good sense of Colombia. After all, six weeks is a fair amount of time to spend anywhere.

But I was wrong. Given its size and the sheer number of activities, it was barely enough to scratch the surface.

Yet I did manage to see a lot.

Today I want to share my list of what I think are the best things to see and do in Colombia. These are the activities and places you should try to focus on when you visit:

1. Cartagena

a view of colorful doors and roofs in Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena is one of the most visited destinations in Colombia (thanks to a lot of direct flights and cruise ship visits). Dating back to 1533, the city is famed for its colonial Old Town: a maze of cobbled alleys, flower-covered balconies, and giant churches on spacious plazas.

But despite the crowds (and there are a lot of crowds), I really enjoyed Cartagena. While there aren’t a lot of tourist activities (you can do most of them in a single day), what makes it a wonderful place to visit is just that: it’s somewhere you can slow down, relax, and gorge on the phenomenal gastronomy.

For more, check out this blog post about Cartegena and all my favorite places to eat there.

2. Tayrona National Park

boats pulled up on a sandy beach in Tayrona National Park
Located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Tayrona has long stretches of golden beaches lined with coconut palms and a dense rainforest with lots of easy day hikes. You’ll also find campsites for overnight stays, hammocks for rent, restaurants, diving, and horse riding.

It’s easy to visit as a day trip from Santa Marta. I highly suggest you start early at the big entrance at El Zaino and exit the park through Calabazo. This underused route takes a whole day, and once you pass the Cabo San Juan campground, you’ll get the last half of the trail to yourself. Try to avoid visiting during January and weekends, when the crowds on the beaches and hiking paths are at their peak.

3. The Lost City (La Ciudad Perdida)

the La Ciudad Perdida trek in Colombia with terraces and stone steps; photo by Liam King (flickr:@liam-hels-big-trip)
The Lost City was built around 800 CE and contains 169 terraces carved into the mountains, as well as a network of tiled roads and small plazas. It’s one of the most beautiful treks in the country, and the site is older than Machu Picchu! To visit, you need to hire a tour operator (you can’t do it by yourself). It’s about $300-350 USD for the trek from Santa Marta through the jungle up to these beautiful ruins and takes 4–6 days. If you’re pressed for time, you can also do it in three days; the only difference is the pace you go at.

(Tip: You cross a lot of rivers, so be sure to bring an extra pair of shoes or flip flops for when you cross the rivers. You’ll easily ruin a pair of sneakers along the way.)

4. Salento

bright streets in Salento, Colombia with doors painted yellow, green, and blue
Surrounded by green mountains and coffee farms, this is one of the oldest towns in the coffee-growing region and the most popular for travelers. The houses are painted a variety of vibrant colors, and the high vantage points throughout town provide some stunning views (sunsets are quite magical). There’s not much to do in the city itself — it’s simply a base for coffee tours or hiking the Cocora Valley (see below) or the trails around town — so it’s easy to spend a few days here watching the world go by with a good book in hand.

5. Cocora Valley

the famous wax palms set against a green hill in Cocora Valley, Colombia
The Cocora Valley is home to Colombia’s national tree, the wax palm, which grows to nearly 200 feet tall. This area has probably the most popular day hike in the country (which was also my favorite activity during my entire trip). You’ll cross jungle rivers, visit a bird sanctuary, and enjoy some stellar views and forest scenery. The route’s about five hours, and you can choose to either take the clockwise or counterclockwise route. The clockwise route, starting at the Wax Palm Valley, is easier, with fewer hills. Counterclockwise is easier at the end, though a little anticlimactic, as you end the hike walking down a boring road.

(Tip: Start early to avoid the brutal midday heat, since there are a lot of exposed areas here.)

6. Bogotá

two women walking through streets of graffiti in Bogota
Bogotá is Colombia’s vibrant capital. While it’s not the country’s most popular destination, it felt the most “Colombian” to me: there was just a certain edge and charm to it, and it seemed the least touristy, with the fewest gringo expats. The historic downtown, La Candelaria, is filled with bright colonial buildings, detailed museums, delicious restaurants, tiny fun bars, historic churches, and centuries-old houses. The north end of town is home to boutique hotels and entertainment areas like Zona Rosa and Zona G. The foodie scene in the city is incredible, with a lot of international options and cutting-edge gastronomic happenings. Throw in some amazing walking tours, day trips, and hikes and you’ve got a recipe for an astounding city.

For more, here’s a list of all my favorite things to do – and places to eat – in Bogota.

7. Cali

people performing the salsa in a darkened room in Cali, Colombia
This hot, hot city is the salsa capital of the world, where people come to dance. A lot of the guests at my hostel had been there for weeks to learn (the hostels also offer free dance classes). If you like to dance, you can’t miss this city. Besides dancing, though, there are a number of parks, museums, and churches you can visit, plus free walking and food tours. While I didn’t stay long, I definitely enjoyed the scene.

8. Popayán

white buildings in Popayán with people walking around the main town plaza
Popayán rivals Cartagena as Colombia’s most impressive colonial town. It’s known as La Ciudad Blanca (“The White City”) because all the buildings are painted white. Popayán is also a college town (there are three universities), and it’s produced 17 presidents too! Though small, I really loved the slow pace of life and the surprisingly robust food scene here (eat at La Cosecha Parrillada, Restaurante Italiano y Pizzeria, La Fresa, and Mora de Castilla).

While you don’t need a lot of time (take the walking tour, climb the hill, see the churches, and you’re done), I do suggest staying longer to enjoy the slow pace of life. So much of Colombia is go-go-go, it’s nice to find a place that’s more “stay and relax a while.”

9. Tatacoa Desert

a cactus and bright red sand in Tatacoa Desert; photo by descubriendoelmundo (flickr:@descubriendo-el-mundo
Millions of years ago it was once a lush tropical forest. Now, Tatacoa Desert is filled with rocky canyons in shades of red and gray. It is also home to one of the most important observatories in South America, where you can gaze at the stars (weather permitting). If you want to be blown away by the universe, you really need to see this place! Other than that, there’s not much here. Bike into the desert, take some walks, stare at the sky. Stay a night or two. It’s not a popular area, but it is a picturesque way to break up the long bus ride from Bogotá to the south or vice versa.

10. San Agustín Archaeological Park

face carvings on a tomb in San Agustin Archaeological Park; photo by Erik Cleves Kristensen (flickr:@erikkristensen)
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, San Agustín is a small mountain town that’s home to hundreds of pre-Columbian statues and burial mounds. Its collection of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures is the largest in Latin America, for which you’ll need at least one full day (two to really see it all in depth). If you love history, this is probably the best spot in all of Colombia to experience it.

11. San Gil

mountains around San Gil, Colombia, overlooking a river valley; photo by Sergio Fabara Muñoz (flickr:@kinofabara)
San Gil is considered the outdoors capital of the country. Extreme-sports fans love it here. You can go white-water rafting, paragliding, caving, rappelling, trekking, and more from this city! This city is a great place to do outdoor activities and you’re going to find a lot of tour operators in the city. Try to plan at least three days here. It’s worth it.

12. Providencia and San Andrés Islands

swaying palm trees on a white sand beach in San Andrés Islands
These islands are actually closer to Nicaragua than Colombia. They are also considered some of the most unspoiled places in the Caribbean. You’ll find white-sand beaches, stunningly clear blue water, and few crowds (though, thanks to some recent press, Providencia is becoming a lot busier).

Try to make it when tens of thousands of black crabs migrate to the sea. This happens twice a year for about a 1-2-week period between April and July, so it’s not always easy to nail the timing.

13. Medellín

cable cars ascending into the hills over Medellín, Colombia
In a country full of hype, this hyped-up city is all that it’s cracked up to be. Set in the Aburrá Valley, Medellín is one of the fastest-growing cities in Colombia. It has enough activities and things to do to fill weeks on end: from microbreweries, museums, walking tours, spacious parks, street art, food tours and markets to incredible nightlife, and on and on and on.

It’s one of the most popular destinations for expats and tourists in the country. While it’s easy to get lost in Gringoland here, try to get out of Poblado or Laureles and see the locals’ side of town.

There’s more to the city than those two areas!

14. Guatapé

the Rock of Guatapé with its staircase leading to the top
This pueblo is one of the most picturesque towns in Colombia and one of the most colorful in the world, as most of the traditional homes have murals painted on the bottom half of their façades that depict animals, people, and shapes. Just hanging out in one of the bright plazas, drinking coffee and people-watching, is one of the most pleasant things to do here.

Most people, though, come to climb the steep (and difficult) staircase to the top of the monolithic Rock of Guatapé (La Piedra) for some of the best views in the country. Guatapé is a long day trip from Medellín (hostels in the city organize them throughout the week) so I recommend trying to spend at least a night here so you aren’t as rushed and can enjoy the area little more.

15. Chingaza National Park

a lake in Chingaza National Park, Colombia
This is one of the biggest nature reserves in Colombia, home to more than 1,000 plant species and 187 bird species. Here you’ll learn about the Páramo ecosystem and how it affects the global water system. (Fun fact: Nearly 80% of Bogotá’s water supply comes from Chingaza.) If you’re going to hike, joining a tour is a good idea. The guides are usually naturalists who can explain the unique environment of the area. One of the best routes is the challenging hike to the summit of Lagunas de Siecha, with a great view over the lakes.

16. Barranquilla

the church of San Nicolas in Barranquilla, Colombia
Located between Santa Marta and Cartagena, Barranquilla is the spot to be during Carnival, the second biggest in Latin America. It starts on a Sunday with the Battle of Flowers (a big parade) and the coronation of the King and Queen.

But there’s a lot to do here when it’s not carnival season as well. Make sure you visit El Museo del Caribe, a museum offering an interesting insight into the history of Colombia’s Caribbean coast. There’s also a special exhibit dedicated to Gabriel García Márquez (the famous author who wrote Love in the Time of Cholera).

17. Tierradentro

stone carvings inside a tomb at Tierradentro; photo by tacowitte (flickr:@inyucho)
Tierradentro is one of the most important archaeological sites in South America. It’s up there with San Agustín but gets less press since it’s located in the middle of nowhere and not on a main road. It contains over 100 hypogea (underground tombs) dating from the sixth to the tenth centuries, the only examples of their kind in the Americas. It takes a day or two to hike all the paths around the tombs. You can hire a guide if you want, but the trails are pretty easy to do on your own.

18. Manizales (and Los Nevados)

the snow-capped mountains of Los Nevados with hikers; photo by Triángulo del Café Travel (flickr:@triangulodelcafe)
On the road from Medellín to the south is the city of Manizales. Here, you can take some tours at this northern point of the coffee-growing region, or roam around town, which has some decent restaurants and churches, and a scenic gondola ride. The main reason people visit is to hike Los Nevados, a mountain range with majestic snow-capped peaks. You can do a day or multi-day hikes, but whatever you do, don’t rush up to the top — acclimatize yourself to the altitude in Manizales for a few days first. The town is 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) above sea level, but mountains are about 6,000 meters (19,700 feet)! I wasn’t climatized and could really feel the altitude just walking around town. Don’t push yourself if you want to do the hike.

19. The Caribbean Coast

Colombia's tropical Caribbean Coast with people walking across a beach
The beaches on the Caribbean coast might not win any awards (at least in my opinion), but the sleepy towns reminded me a lot of the tiny backpacker beach villages around Southeast Asia: a dirt road, lots of hostels, a relaxed atmosphere, and not much else to do. I could easily see why people end up getting stuck here for weeks at a time. The best beach towns to visit are Costeño Beach and Palomino.

20. Punta Gallinas

Punta Gallinas sand dune, Colombia; photo by Luis Pérez (flickr:@pe5pe)
Punta Gallinas is the northernmost point in all of South America. Most people come here via a tour from Santa Marta or Cabo de Vela, with the latter (through La Guajira Desert) being the better option if you just want to take your time and relax because it’s closer so there’s a lot less drive time. In fact, the only way to see the area is via a tour. Most are two or three nights depending on where you’re coming from. Any hostel can organize a trip for you.

21. Minca

lush green mountain hills over Minca, Colombia; photo by diego_cue (Wikimedida Commons)
Minca is located in the foothills of the Sierra de Santa Marta Mountains. Once a sleepy backpacker town, it’s now a hot spot for tourists escaping the oppressive heat on the Caribbean coast and hoping to do some quiet hikes. One of the best hikes is to Los Pinos, but it isn’t easy: it takes about three hours from the center of town, and it’s a steady climb into the mountains but, like all things like this, it’s worth it.

There are a lot of waterfalls in the area as well. Two of the best are the Pozo Azul and Marinka. Both have swimming holes at them too.

Be sure to check out the sunset Mundo Nuevo Hostel. It’s an amazing vantage point.

***

Colombia has a million and one things to do. I lost track of all the places I kept wishing I had time to visit. You can spend months there (and a lot of people to do). However, I think this list is a great start. My recommendation is that if you’re short on time, fly (the bus rides are long) or just stick to one area of the country and go in depth around that region.

Trying to “see it all” in Colombia is just a recipe for burnout!

Book Your Trip to Colombia: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Want More Information on Colombia?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Colombia for even more planning tips!

Photo credits: 4, 10, 11, 12, 18, 19, 21, 22

The post My 21 Favorite Places to Visit in Colombia appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.

My 8 Favorite Hostels in Medellín in 2019

Medellin city view at night
Posted: 3/19/2019 | March 19th, 2019

There are a lot of hostels in Medellín. As “gringo central” for Colombia, you can’t walk five feet without coming across one, with majority located in El Pablado (Gringoland) and Laureles (up-and-coming Gringoland).

In fact, if you look on Hostelworld, you’ll find 93 hostels in this city. That’s a lot of hostels.

I spent close to three weeks in Medellín: first for an extended time over the holidays and then again as I made my way from north to south. Like I do whenever I’m in cities that long, I decided to stay in as many hostels as possible to find out which were the best.

A lot of online lists purport to tell you the best hostels in the city, but I found that my experiences staying in them differed so greatly from the reviews, I began to think, “Ya know, I don’t think people really stayed here!”

So, after spending three weeks there and moving every other day, here is my list of my favorite hostels, based on actual firsthand experience.

The 8 Best Hostels in Medellin

1. Los Patios

Los Patios, Medellin
This stylish hostel has themed floors inspired by Colombia’s natural surroundings: mountains, jungles, sea, and plains. It’s part of a massive two-building complex that also has a co-working space, a gym, rooftop bars, an organic garden (whose herbs you can use), a Spanish school, and communal kitchens. It was by far my favorite hostel in the entirety of the city. (In fact, I think it is one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in!)

Each dorm bed comes with a privacy curtain, and the private rooms are as comfortable as hotels. The bathrooms were amazing and the beds super comfy — I got some of my best nights’ sleep here. It offers free tea and coffee, great happy hours, amazing parties, and activities like salsa classes and street art tours, plus there are free bike rentals. The staff is also super friendly and welcoming. Overall, this hostel just gets it.

Beds from $17 USD, privates from $50 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Los Patios!

2. Hostel Rango Boutique

Hostel Rango Boutique, Medellin
Hostel Rango is one of the more upscale hostels in the city. The dorm beds are super comfy, though the beds lack privacy curtains. Each bed comes with reading lights, two power sockets, and personal lockers. The bathrooms are nicer than anything I’ve ever seen in a hostel and rival that of a luxury hotel. I mean, that water pressure! That rustic design? So good! I want these bathrooms in my home. Private rooms are also available and come with a few additional touches, like TVs and mini-fridges, but they are as expensive as hotels, so skip them.

I found the open, industrial décor is super fashionable, and the hostel’s restaurant and bar area great for grabbing a meal and a really good professional cocktail (honestly the bar alone is worth visiting). The staff will also help to set you up with activities like food tours and free walking tours.

Beds from $18 USD, privates from $75 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Hostel Rango Boutique!

3. Sugar Cane Hostel

Sugar Cane Hostel, Medellin
German- and Colombian-owned Sugar Cane is small. There are just a few private and dorm rooms on one level. The rooms are impressively clean, although they lack the character of the larger hostels in town. The roof has a common area with a few hammocks as well as the hostel’s kitchen. Breakfast is free (you serve yourself) and comes with all the essentials, like bread, eggs, muesli, coffee, and tea. Every Sunday the German owner (I forget his name) cooks up his famous barbecue of chicken, steak, sausages, and all the fixings! It’s a pretty standard, simple hostel, but the owner really makes you feel like family, and he helped me a lot during my stay.

Beds from $10 USD, private rooms from $28 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Sugar Cane Hostel!

4. Happy Buddha Boutique Hostel

Happy Buddha Boutique, Medellin
This is the largest party hostel in Medellín, so if you’re looking to get crazy, this your best bet! The staff works hard to keep people happy (and drunk), including organizing drinking games, salsa classes, and pub crawls. You’ll get free breakfast and coffee in the mornings. The drink are cheap here and there are two on-site restaurants selling sushi and tacos.

Thankfully, the huge bar area is separate from the rooms, so it’s pretty quiet. But the rooms are fairly basic and the beds nothing special — you’ll sleep but won’t be blown away by anything. The real reason to come here is to be in the middle of the party! A lot of pub crawls stop here.

Beds from $10 USD, private rooms from $28 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Happy Buddha Boutique Hostel!

5. The Wandering Paisa

The Wandering Paisa, Medellin
The Wandering Paisa is located in the upscale area of Laureles, which is the up and coming touristy area. All the dorms are covered in South American and Colombian cultural artwork by local students. Each bed comes with a large locker and a privacy divider, which makes it easier to sleep. While the beds are average, I was a big fan of the nice pillows. The kitchen is has the basic essentials. The Paisa Bar is a fun spot to hang out in, and local musicians perform on the sundeck. The hostel also offers free salsa lessons and Spanish classes. If you want to get out of Poblado, this is the place to stay.

Beds from $8 USD, private rooms from $23 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at The Wandering Paisa!

6. Black Sheep Hostel

Black Sheep Hostel, Medellin
The Black Sheep Hostel, one of Medellín’s most popular, was also the first in town. I really loved this hostel. The rooms, while pretty bare, are spotless, and the bathrooms have great water pressure and are cleaned regularly. There are lots of common spaces here, including a large balcony and terrace area. The beer sold is cheap and I found guests here were always socializing and hanging out (the way they should). The Kiwi staff owner is super nice and staff members are all university students that are great at handing out local advice. The hostel also offers a ton of tour options that you can book directly from and they’ll even exchange money if you need. This is another “classic” hostel that gets everything right! I loved it.

Beds from $11 USD, private rooms from $25 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Black Sheep Hostel!

7. Purple Monkey

Purple Monkey, Medellin
This is definitely one of the liveliest party hostels in Medellín. It’s quirky and upbeat, with a massive rooftop bar area. I found the dorms to be small and cramped, and it was a bit weird to go upstairs and outside to the shower area, but the place is kept very clean, there’s free breakfast, and you really only come here to party, so who cares about anything else!

Beds from $11 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Purple Monkey!

8. Casa Kiwi Hostel

Casa Kiwi Hostel, Medellin
Casa Kiwi Hostel is another institution and located in the middle of Poblado. The dorms are small and I found the beds to be a little thin, but each bed has a locker, and overall, the building is clean and tidy. There’s a big kitchen with free coffee and tea, but the hostel’s restaurant serves up tasty and cheap food. It also has a rooftop terrace, a plunge pool, a bar, plenty of hammocks, and a mini-theater. As one of the most popular hostels in the city, it’s really easy to meet people here, as it’s always full!

Beds from $11, private rooms from $31 USD.

—-> Click here to book your stay at Casa Kiwi Hostel!

***

Two places I would not recommend staying are Monet’s and Selina. Monet’s is new and cheap and has friendly owners, but it’s far from the action, the walls are thin, and the accommodations pretty basic. If you were on a tight, tight budget and everywhere else was full, it would be good for a night. I wouldn’t spend more time there than that.

Selina is a super popular hostel with digital nomads and has locations around the world. It’s always so hyped up that I was pretty excited to stay there. However, I was greatly disappointed with it. It was good spot to work from (they have a co-working space), there are resturants on site, and the bar, though overpriced, was nice place to meet expats and travelers, but the beds were hard, the rooms had little privacy, and the bathrooms weren’t well kept. Given the high premium it charges, I just didn’t see the value in staying there. Better to stay elsewhere and go party at Selina instead! You get more bang for your peso elsewhere.

***

So there you have it: the best hostels in Medellín based on my recent firsthand experience. You can’t go wrong with any of them, but by far the best, best, BEST hostel in the city is Los Patios. It’s one of the greatest hostels I’ve ever stayed in!

Did we miss any? If you have any suggestions, leave them in the comments.

Book Your Trip to Medellin: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Looking for more information on visiting Colombia?
Check out my in-depth destination guide to Colombia with more tips on what to see, do, costs, ways to save, and much, much more!

Photo credits: 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10

The post My 8 Favorite Hostels in Medellín in 2019 appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.

This is Not Your Parent’s Colombia

The flag of Colombia blowing in the wid as it hangs from a building
Posted: 3/14/2019 | March 14th, 2019

Colombia’s troubled past – cartels, paramilitaries, poverty, petty crime — casts a long shadow that still reaches to today. The country is still viewed by many as a place where danger lurks around every corner.*

Having grown up hearing stories of Colombian drug lords, kidnappings, murders, and muggings, these ghosts haunted the back of my mind as prepared to visit the country.

Was the country going to be safe? Should I bring my electronics?

The stories and images we grow up with don’t leave us easily. They slide to the recesses of our mind and wait there, ready to jump back to the forefront and whisper fear into our ears.

Even though I knew otherwise, the old image of Colombia — born of decades of media bombardment — still circled around me as I touched down in Medellin.

It quickly evaporated once face with reality.

Colombian history is just that. History.

The colorful and bright buildings of a narrow street in Bogota, Colombia

Yes, there are still many problems here in Colombia: the drug trade is still strong, paramilitaries still exist, and petty crime is a major problem. The murder rate, though falling dramatically over the last decade, was still 11,781 in 2017 and petty crime and armed robbery are still a regular occurrence with 2018 seeing over 200,000 armed robberies in the country.

Locals often suggested not going out to certain areas at night and being extra careful with my stuff. There are still issues with the paramilitaries (there was a bombing while I was there by the National Liberation Army, a radical paramilitary group). Income inequality is high. Poverty is rife. About 29% of the population lives below the poverty line.

Colombia is not perfect. It’s still growing, it’s still developing, and it still is trying to cast off the long shadow of its troubled past.

But the big cartel days are over, and most paramilitaries have entered peace agreements with the government. Major crimes are decreasing each year. Kidnapping has decreased by 92% since the cartel years and homicides have dropped by around 50% over the past two decades.

Poverty is decreasing as well. Since 2002, when the government started tracking poverty statistics, the poverty rate in the country has dropped from almost 50% to 29% — and it’s still dropping by around 3% each year. On top of that, their GDP per capita has increased almost five-fold since 1980.

Slowly but surely, things are improving.

Tourism from around the globe is on the rise, as well, with tourism doubling since 2010.

Foreigners are moving there in droves (Colombia gets a new immigrant every 18 minutes). The country is a hub for digital nomads and tech companies like WeWork, Facebook, and Google. It’s making big strides, generally dispelling visitors’ previous preconceptions.

Danger doesn’t lurk around every corner the way it used. Colombia is a country on the move and people are eagerly wanting to shed its past.

This is not our parents’ Colombia.

The skyline of Cartegena, Colombia on a sunny day with skyscrapers and the port in view

The country constantly blew away all my expectations. (Even my dad, who was sure I was going to get kidnapped, commented after seeing my photos that it wasn’t anything like he thought it was.)

The people were curious, friendly, warm, and helpful. I had some great conversations with students and Uber drivers (I bonded with one over classical music and another over our mutual love of the book The 5 Love Languages). Colombians I met in Cartagena took me out and treated me like we had been friends forever. I had countless other positive encounters with people who seemed generally happy to show their country to visitors.

The infrastructure rivaled what you see in the advanced countries of Europe. Seriously, the roads, the ski-style gondolas leading into the mountains, the subways, the rapid bus routes, the trams — I only wish the United States had such a comprehensive system.

a colorful street in Cartagena

The culinary scene — high-class gastronomy throughout, mixed with incredible hole-in-the-wall restaurants and ceviche and fruit smoothie street vendors — is one of the most eclectic and cutting-edge in the region.

And with lightning-fast Wi-Fi and tons of cafés, I found working there a breeze.

Colombia is packed with things to do and see, from beautiful colonial towns like Popayan and Cartagena to vibrant cities such as Bogotá and Medellín, from dancing in Cali to the Lost City Trek, from the beaches of the north to hikes in the coffee region, from the desert of Tatacoa to the ruins of San Agustín.

I thought that spending six weeks in the country would allow me to dig a little deeper, but even with that amount of time, I still barely scratched the surface.

Colombia is no Shangri-La.

But it’s damn close.

I give it an 11 out of 10.

It may be clichéd to say but I can’t wait to go back. Colombia was one of the best countries I’ve visited in years.

I can’t speak highly enough about it.

Book Your Trip to Colombia: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Looking for more information on visiting Colombia?
Check out my in-depth destination guide to Colombia with more tips on what to see, do, costs, ways to save, and much, much more!

 
*I don’t mean just in the United States. Colombia has become incredibly popular with Dutch travelers thanks to a popular TV show that takes place here but many told me that older Dutch residents still ask “Why are you going to Colombia? It’s dangerous.” Old patterns die hard…no matter where you are in the world.

The post This is Not Your Parent’s Colombia appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.

Cartagena: A City of Color, Tourists, and Food

Brightly painted buildings along a narrow, empty street in Cartagena, Colombia
Posted: 3/12/2019 | March 12th, 2019

During the narco heydays, Cartagena was considered the only “safe” spot in Colombia for tourists. It was where foreigners vacationed, cruise ships docked, and rich Colombians built their vacation homes.

Today, this colorful colonial city remains one of the most popular destinations for tourists and Colombians alike. Rich Colombians — and now foreigners — still build vacation homes here, cruise ships still dock, and the influx of tourists has grown with an increasing number of direct flights from North America and Europe.

Out of all the stops on my Colombian tour, Cartagena was the place I was least excited about.

As one of the best-preserved and historic cities in Colombia, I knew I would love its narrow colonial streets, ancient walls, grand plazas, and Spanish-style houses with their giant doors and wooden terraces, not to mention the restaurants whose tables spilled into busy plazas.

But I was not so eager to be in such a touristy, crowded city for five long days. A friend was flying down for a quick vacation and he was not keen to go elsewhere on a long bus. I would be stuck in this tiny, tourist town.

Cartagena turned out to be everything I thought it would be.

Brightly painted houses with hanging flower gardens lining a narrow street in Cartagena, Colombia

It had the kind of heat and humidity that melted you in place, it was very expensive, and it was filled with throngs from cruises, tours, bachelor and bachelorette parties, and gringos trying to score drugs (and shady streetside pushers happy to oblige).

Throw in packed streets and too few “tourist” activities and I was ready to get out of there as soon as I had arrived. (Seriously. After a couple of museums, a walking tour, and a visit to a beach or two, you’ve pretty much seen the city.)

But, when it did come time to leave, I found myself downright crestfallen.

I had grown to really love Cartagena.

In the midst of all those touts and tourists, I found an architecturally beautiful and vibrant city. A place on whose edges the crowds disperse and lovely little Colombian cafés appear. A city with cutting-edge restaurants, lively music, town squares full of life, and funky bars.

Early in the morning, before the heat of the day drove me inside and the cruise ships let their armies loose, I’d wander the empty streets of the old town, taking copious pictures as the light dangled perfectly between streets. I got my tea and breakfast at the same shops. Waved hello to locals sitting in the parks. Busy Cartagena is a quiet little town at 8am.

In Getsemani, the backpacker area, I found colorful homes, squares filled with street vendors, cheap eateries, and heaving bars. I’d sit at night with my street food watching bands and street performers, including a duo who flawlessly reenacted “Thriller.”

And, in Bocagrande, a Miami-style neighborhood for the rich and famous, I saw how the well-to-do lived, enjoyed some of the better beaches in the area, and strolled along its long promenade.

My friend and I dove into the city’s fabulous gastronomy scene and gorged on delicious ceviche, empanadas, brick-oven pizza, and traditional Colombian food. The food scene here was one of the best in Colombia. (It was really impressive for such a small city. See the bottom of the post for recommendations.)

In beautiful colors that must be mandated by the government, the vibrantly painted buildings and heavy doors with shapes and designs that could be their own blog gave Cartagena an upbeat feel to it.

Spending extra time doing nothing allowed me to linger a bit longer, explore some hole-in-the-wall shops, sit along squares with a beer, and head over to the least touristy beach possible:

A sandy beach with a couple of tourists relaxing on a sunny day in Cartagena

(It was me, my friend Ryan, and some kids on a boogie board)

I had fallen in love with Cartagena because there wasn’t much to do there. I couldn’t fill my days with activities. All I could was just chill and relax.

Sure, the crowds couldn’t be ignored since I always had to jostle for space, but as I drank tea, ate well, strolled the picturesque city walls, and made a local friend who took me out with his family and friends, I thought about how there’s always another side to a place.

Whenever you visit somewhere, there always seems to be an area that most travelers never go past, as if an invisible barrier keeps them from going just one step farther.

But it’s in that extra step that we find the “local,” non-touristy parts of town, away from the crowds.

So too is there a time barrier. As travelers, we often swoop in, take photos, see the attractions, eat the food, and leave claiming some sort of deeper knowledge. We see a snapshot of life and create a complete history from that one image.

I heard it from many people before I visited:

“Cartagena is an overpriced, touristy city. It’s good for just a few days. See it, leave it.”

On one level, that is true. It is overpriced. It is touristy. And, if you’re in a rush, you don’t need a lot of time to check off the boxes.

Colorful houses and balconies in Cartagena painted bright colors with lots of greenery

But, beneath the layers, like all cities, there was a non-touristy version of Cartagena.

Like the invisible line that keeps tourists in their zone, all I had to do was wait out the invisible time barrier to see it. Suddenly, the switch was flipped, the doors opened, and Cartagena revealed some of its secrets.

Cartagena is not about seeing the sights.

And, when I stopped trying to be a tourist looking for sights and accepted for the city as it was, Cartagena became a place I couldn’t get enough of.

If I had only stayed a few days, I probably would have felt about the city the way everyone else did.

But when you stop putting cities into the pre-framed images you have for them, they tend to surprise. Those extra days just allowed me to enjoy the city for what it was: a place to relax, eat, and slow down.

Recomennded places to eat

  • Carmen – Very, very high-end gastronomy. This place not cheap but it was the best meal I had in Colombia. I can’t recommend it enough. Come for lunch when you won’t need a reservation.
  • La Mulata – A nice little cafe for lunch.
  • Demente – Awesome pizza and cocktails in a rustic setting.
  • Cafe Stepping Stone – Aussie style cafe. They do a good breakfast and brunch.
  • El Punto – Across the street from Cafe Stepping Stone, this hole in the wall restaurant serves traditional Colombian food at dirt cheap prices.
  • Don Juan – Another high-end dinner restaurant. If you’re looking for something classy that serves good, solid food, check this place out.
  • La Cevichería – Bourdain put this place on the map as having the best ceviche in the city. I don’t know if it’s true but everything here was top notch. Come early as it gets super busy the second they open.

Book Your Trip to Cartagena: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Looking for more information on visiting Colombia?
Check out my in-depth destination guide to Colombia with more tips on what to see, do, costs, ways to save, and much, much more!

The post Cartagena: A City of Color, Tourists, and Food appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.